The Best Of...3-L Technical Mountain Shells Reviewed Page 2

Mountain Equipment: Kongur MRT Silver Award
+Based on the award-winning Kongur (Trail) Pro Shell + reinforced + reflective trim
+ Longer length, double storm flap, 4 chest pockets, ideal for harness-wear
+ excellent wire-peaked helmet hood, 
+ 640g (550g-non Mountain Rescue version)
Mountain Hardwear Beryllium Jacket
+ Pro Shell + micro grid backer
+ 'hardwearing' but light Pro Shell laminate with welded construction
+ Good sized wire helmet hood brim (one hand adjustment)
+ good internal zip pockets and chest high hand pockets
Norrona Falketind Pro Shell Jacket
+ GTX Pro Shell (windproof) 
+ 2 Large, excellent for use with harness, WP pockets
+ Perfect-sized hood for use with helmet, with great vision
+ Seriously light at 460g
Norrona Trollvegen Jacket 6th Place
+ Dri 3 (GTX Pro Shell) fabric with a solid, robust laminate that seems bomb-proof in testing
+ Four-way stretch membrane panels ideal for mountain wear
+ unique arm design for the best stretch and comfort I've had in a jacket, whilst climbing
+ breathes exceptionally well for a hardy full-spec mountaineering jacket (640g)
Outdoor Research AlterEgo Jacket 10th Place
+ 70d GTX Pro Shell, solid under testing + 'infinite guarantee'
+ Removable dual adjustable helmet hood, with excellent fit
+ Simplistic design, storm flapped WT zips + nice sized internal pockets
+ Powder skirt + articulated elbows.
Paramo Aspira Jacket
+ Membrane/ Outer Analogy (Nikwax Technology, like 'animal fur' check it out!)
+ High volume helmet hood, wired and fully adjustable roll away
+ Most durable jacket, heavy ( 841g) but good temp. control pit zips, roll-up sleeves etc.
+ Drip skirt, long tail, large pockets + removable foam inserts for added comfort!
Patagonia M10 Jacket 7th Place
+ 3-layer + H2NO shell= very durable but lightweight bomb-proof, minimalist design
+ WP Large zipped pockets / air ventilation system
+ 3-way adjustable lam. helmet hood
+ 306g
Rab Latok Jacket Gold Award
+ Uses midweight/ heavyweight eVent in excellent zoning (670g)
+ better durability (newer version) in high-abrasion areas
+ The best hood yet, wired fully adjustable helmet compatible, velcro-seal

+ 4 outer pockets and 2 internal + excellent venting pit zips

Westcomb Revenant Hoody 8th Place

+ 560NST 3l eVent

+ schoeller c-change + schoeller WB-400 technology (stretch+ articulated)

+ 2 napoleon + 2 bellow pockets

+ helmet compatible hood + removable powder skirt

The Best Of...3-L Technical Mountain Shells Reviewed Page 1

ArcTeryx Theta SV Jacket 4th Place
+ extra long cut
+ a great helmet-ft hood (storable)
+ reinforced high-abrasion areas / articulated elbows 3l GTX Pro Shell
+ 565g
Cloudveil Koven Plus Jacket
+ Schoeller c-change technology (creating your own micro-climate)
+ stretch in high-mobility areas
+ a well executed helmet-ft hood
+ 590g
Crux Flak Jacket
+ tough eVent (3l)
+ minimalist design
+single-handed helmet friendly hood
+ 460g
Eider Gasherbrum Jacket 9th Place
+ GTX Pro Shell 3l,
+ Deep helmet hood, with memory height and retaining peak
+ preshaped elbows and a strong shell laminate
+ 550g 
Haglofs Spitz Jacket 3rd Place
+ GTX Pro Shell 3l, with a substantial durable laminate and reinforced high-abrasion areas
+ roll away 3-way adjustable helmet hood
+ ISPO Outdoor Award for design and innovation
+ 495g
Macpac Prophet Jacket 5th Place
+ eVent 3l with tough outer
+ Kevlar reinforced 'hot spots'
+ stretch in high-mobility areas
+ external storm flap, articulated elbows, the list goes on!
Mammut Extreme Cho Oyu Jacket
+ Schoeller C-Change waterproof membrane and NanoSphere technology
+ high reach sleeves, good fit, stretch
+ M.A.P hood design
+ 535g
Marmot Troll Wall Jacket
+ Hood fits well with/ without helmet, good wire
+ GTX Pro Shell 3l,
+ Great movability + snow skirt
+ 574g
Millet Expert Evo Jacket
+ 3l GTX Pro Shell
+ Reinforced + abrasion resistant throughout
+ Integral helmet hood that fits well
+ preformed elbows and stretch
Montane Superfly XT
+ eVent membrane + double storm flap + extra length
+ Improved design of hood with added peak
+ the price (£250)
+ 4 massive pockets

The Best Of...3-layer Technical Mountain Shells

The Best Of...3-layer Technical Mountain Shells
To be considered for this category:

• 3-layer pro-shell (or equivalent) as the predominant material (though some soft-shell/ paclite could be used).
• A decent adjustable hood, that could be worn over British-style helmet
• Taped, welded seams and minimum stitching
• Zippers are covered WR/WP and stand up to mountain weather
• Designed to be worn with harness/pack
• Rugged enough to withstand abrasion
• Breathable membrane and inner
• Wind-resistancy

Top 20* Finalists: 
ArcTeryx: Theta SV Jacket*/ Theta AR Jacket
Berghaus: Attrition Jacket/ Fortitude Jacket /Yala Peak Jacket
Canada Goose: Tofino Bomber Jacket*
Cloudveil: Koven Plus Jacket*
Crux: Flak Jacket*/ Torq Jacket
Eider: Gasherbrum Jacket*
GoLite: Badlands Trinity 3L Jacket
GroundWear: Extension Shell Jacket/ Essence Shell Jacket
Helly Hansen: Odin Jacket
Haglofs: Spitz Jacket*/ Creva Jacket
Lowe Alpine: Aguille Jacket
Macpac: Prophet (eVent) Jacket*
Mammut: Extreme Cho Oyu Jacket/ Annapurna Jacket
Marmot: Troll Wall Jacket*, Alpinist Jacket, Exum Jacket
Millet: K Expert Evo Jacket*/ Axon Pro GTX Evo
Montane: Superfly XT*/ Evolution Jacket
Montbell: Thunderhead Jacket
Mountain Equipment: Kongur MRT*/ Tupilak/ Ogre/ Nanga Parbat/ Changabang Jacket
Mountain Hardwear: Beryllium Jacket*/ Caraballo Jacket/ Vertical Jacket
North Face: Mammatus Jacket /Mountain Guide Jacket
Norrona: Falketind Jacket*/ Trollvegen Jacket*
Outdoor Research: Mentor Jacket* /AlterEgo Jacket*
Paramo: Aspira Jacket*/ Smock
Patagonia: M10 Jacket* /Microburst Jacket/ Stretch Element Jacket
Rab: Latok Jacket*/ Demand Pull-On Jacket
Salewa: Neptune Jacket
Sierra Designs: Mantra Fusion Jacket
Vaude: Krypton Jacket/ Dom Stretched Jacket
Westcomb: Revenant Hoody*/ Cruiser LT Hoody

Gear Review: Montane Atomic D.T 2L

Montane Atomic D.T 2L 9/10
Now this is a simplistic, light, classic Montane 2 layer waterproof. The cut is perfect on me (the men's, the women's is too short, as usual) with a classic 'active ' fit.  It's made out of Entrant which is a very breathable, light membrane (and outer), and it outperforms most in its price bracket (£110).  It's ideal for those looking to be lightweight and active without compromising on waterproofness.  I'd say 2-layer fabrics are as thin as I'd like to go and need a good laminate on top to provide waterproof efficiency, but this actually is 2.5 layer (with microporous Entrant DT) with a 10,000 static head so can stand a fair amount of British weather.  The pockets are mesh lined (I presume to cut down on weight) and are importantly excellent ventilation options for the cyclists/ runners amongst us, the seams are minimal which is good to see and are all fully taped. It has an excellent fully adjustable wire peaked hood (roll away) which fits great over my helmet (cycling) providing good flexibility and movement.  Oh and above all it weighs a staggering 295g (!) which makes it definitely one of the lightest 2 layers on the market.  For mountain use I'd plump for something with a little more wind resistancy but for a 'Just In Case' jacket you can't go wrong! (It's all about the Moroccan Blue)


SPEC:     
Integral, adjustable, roll-away mountain hood with reinforced wired peak with single hand operated non-whip face aperture draw-cords
Fully taped seams
Full length two-way, semi-automatic front zip with internal storm flap and rain drain
Single hand adjustable, elasticated draw-cord hem
Two large part-vent zipped chest pockets with storm flap
DWR Beardguard lined chin guard
Hook and loop adjustable cuffs
Own stuff sac
MONTANE® logo reflective trim
Main body - ENTRANT® DT Storm
Contrast - ENTRANT® DT Downpour
Colours: Black / black, Moroccan blue / moroccan blue, Deep red / deep red

Gear Review: Mammut Fitz Roy Jacket

Mammut Fitz Roy Jacket 8.5/10
My oh my have Mammut come up trumps this time! What a superb jacket.  For a start it's Schoeller Fabric is (as you'd expect) highly technical and superior to much else on the market.  This, according to Mammut's schpiel is an "intelligent membrane that adjusts its breathability to the ambient temperature. Pores open during high temperatures allowing more moisture to escape to the outside, while waterproofness remains at the same level. Lower temperatures cause the pores to close again and increase the insulation".  I've no idea how it works, it just does.  Basically it's a 3-layer hard shell that responds to changes in outer temperature.  The material has a warm flannel backing and an abrasion-resistant outer which feels and looks great, as well as performing excellently under harness, backpack etc. 

It has a stripped-down feel to this jacket which is good because it's not a light alpine jacket (1010g) but then it's a soft shell and a hard shell combined- so you'd expect it to be.  The MAP hood is simple to adjust and works well over a helmet, and ideal for boarding/ skiing as well as alpine use.  It also has two hand-pockets that have a nice lining to keep them warm and the usual single adjustment hem to keep the weather out.  It has an arm pocket for your ski pass/ gps and pit zips incase you're over-working the jacket (which is unlikely, it's very breathable).  It's also DRYtech waterproof which is durable (but not as durable, in my book as the Proshell outer).  It's also a stunning looking jacket (as usual) and stands up to abuse.  It's got good adjustable velcro cuffs and doesn't ride about when highly active.  An excellent jacket, well designed, it comes in at £400/£370, so it ain't cheap but I've seen it for a lot less than that online so snap them up before they go! (Webtogs, packyourbags)

SPEC:

Fabric: Schoeller® C-Change™ 3-layer

DRYtech waterproof / windproof technology

BreathableMAP hood for quick adjustment and excellent visibility

2 zippered hand warmer pockets1 arm zippered arm pocket
2-way pit zipsOne-hand adjustable drawcord waist hem
Recommended for: backcountry, climbing, hiking, skiing, snowboarding
Weight: 1010g

Gear Review: Mammut Albaron GTX Jacket

Mammut Albaron Jacket GTX Jacket 6.5/10
As I am always saying, the Swedes don't half make some attractive (if expensive) kit, the Albaron Jacket is no exception.  I'll start with the fabric, GTX Pro Shell, which has good wind-resistancy (due to PU coating over GTX membrane) plus good breathability.  Next comes the hood, 'tick' verticle and horizontal adjustments, good wire frame, helmet compatible.  It has shoulder 'print' for extra-looking durability (but which do very little) over the shoulder areas....  The zips are sprayproof YKK which is also a plus... but that's not the interesting point about this jacket, it's the fact that the zipper pockets run from chest height all the way down to lower pocket height.  Now you're thinking WHAT?? and quite rightly.  They're 2-way zips apparently to convert the pockets into any pockets you choose- High breast pockets for climbing, low ones for walking etc.  I have a few qualms with this 'technology' 1: two-way zips don't fully close so extreme levels of water will allow water (eventually) in (this is the problem with most two-way zips pit zips too, which are on this jacket- and many others).  2: the zips are laminated = stiffer than Pro shell = ridges in jacket = not easy to use when active.  3: I want 3 pockets if it's a multi-use jacket so I'm not sticking my hands in my jacket for warmth and feeling my map, or my GPS- It's just not that comfy. There are other jackets with this kind of zip-system, and I didn't like them then, sorry, just 'in the field' it's just not practicle, and rather annoying. Also I like a double drawcord hem, and this is single.
Plus side to this jacket? Weight, a very reasonable 440g, good sleeves- shaped perfectly with velcro adjustable sleeves, pro-shell GTX fabric, excellent hood, excellent fit for the slimmer build, and great two-tone shell that seems sturdy and durable. But at RRP £330 there are certainly cheaper, and better designed jackets on the market, and from Mammut- the Fitzroy Jacket (Schoeller 3-layer adaptive regulate temp. fabric) breeches the gap between hard/soft shell and at RRP £370 (I've seen it in several places for below an incredible £300) is well worth the splash of cash!)
a light and technical 3-layer GORE-TEX® top jacket for alpinists, suitable for a wide range of applications.


SPECS:
A light and technical 3-layer Pro Shell GORE-TEX Jacket for alpinists, suitable for a wide range of applications. 
Fabric: GORE-TEX® Pro Shell® 3-Layer
Technical and light weather protection jacket offering reliable protection in high alpine terrain

New hood design, can be adjusted vertically and horizontally, helmet-compatible
2 large front pockets with 2-way zips
Underarm ventilation with 2-way zip
Drawcord hem, adjustable using one hand
Shoulder print
Adjustable hem
Pre-shaped sleeves with Velcro cuffs
Sprayproof YKK zippers

Optimally suitable for Expeditions, Backpacking, Classical Alpinism
Suitable for Skitouring / Backcountry Skiing, Multipitch Rockclimbing, Via Ferrata, Mountain Hiking, Mixed- and Iceclimbing

Gear Review: Crux Plasma Down Smock

Crux Plasma Down Smock 8.5/10
Wow, what a smock, it ain't cheap (£275) which is why I pipped for the smock (half zip) option rather than the full jacket (£295) plus I prefer a good smock anyway.  The market has been crying out for the Plasma, a fully waterproof but breathable down jacket for active use.  I've used this piece climbing in cold, cold Norway which is why I am emphatic about the MUST have status of this smock! Firstly it's 800 fp Polish down, so it's top notch quality, secondly it's only 160g fill so it's not too bulky (admittedly then not the warmest down jacket on the market) but that's good if you're looking to bung this in the bottom of a crag-bag or are using it for its intended purpose, active use.  Mine weighed in at 450g (S) which is ideal for me to scrinch up tiny + not overload my pack.  It's well made, in baffle technology so the heat is shared out around the smock (hence the price) plus it's glued not stitched to the outer shell which cuts down on weight and increases waterproofness (decreases breathability though).  The outer is eVent, woop woop, so it's extra breathable and fully waterproof.  The zip is full waterproof too with Riri Aquazip which work fantastic by the way, in case you're concerned about their performance against YKK zips.  Another plus side is the two internal stuff pockets which are great for your accessories, as well as the outer chest pocket which is large enough to take my map, GPS and compass YAY.  There is a downside, the hood- it's not helmet compatible (as is stated on their website) which is weird for a climbing jacket.  If I'm resting on my belay my head would like some warmth, thank you very much.  It fits (it's a squeeze) but completely restricts movement to 'eyes forward' which is a problem.  It's removable which for me is a plus because I can use it boarding without worrying about snow getting captured in it (or a high thick collar feeling annoying and looking silly).  The sleeve cuffs are elasticated rather than velcro which is good because 1) it cuts down the weight 2) makes it easier to stuff down small 3) debris doesn't get stuck on the velcro.  The elasticated cuff does seem to keep the heat in, and when boarding or moutaineering in this jacket I've placed my mountain (high cuffed) gloves over the smocks cuffs to block out the snow/ cold and prevent them from riding up which has worked 'sweet'.
SPEC:

Shell fabric: eVent

Lining: 20d nylon
Fill: 800 FP Polish goose down (EU norm)
Fill: weight 160 g
Weight 475 g (medium)
Roomy external chest pockets

Generous internal stash pockets
Removable hood

Gear Review: Haglofs Ratio Jacket

Haglofs Ratio Jacket 7/10
The Ratio Jacket is a NEW Mountaineering pro shell jacket with STRETCH GORE-TEX and currently retails at £475!!  Haglofs have exclusivity on this fabric for a year though there are similar jackets with other 3-layer pro shell fabrics on the market, Patagonia Stretch Element £300 Patagonia Stretch Ascent £220 (2.5 layer version) using H2no technology or my personal favourite, the Montane Halo Jacket £250 which uses eVent. Now no jacket is that good, or rather no jacket is that far ahead of its competition that it warrants spending £175+ more....unless you're loaded in which case buy this jacket, because it looks like it's worth £175 even if the technology isn't.  The exclusivity from GORE must have come at an unhealthy price-tag, or you'd expect North Face to be banging on about it....
Now some might say why stretch a pro-shell jacket? Well it's great under a harness/ backpack because it allows the material to move rather than ride up = better protection = dryness = added comfort = happy wearer.  It also looks amazing, which incidently is a running theme of Haglofs and other Swedish manufacturers... now the Swedes do create some exceptional fabrics such as Schoeller's Dry Skin Extreme x3, the most breathable on the market, and some gear that performs fantastically, but one couldn't say it's ever cheap...
Plus points:
Slim Fit + length
Articulation, stretchiness
Breathability
Aesthetically orgasmic colours, design
Lightweight
a decent hood with six adjusting toggles,

Laminated zips + an inner storm flap on the full zip for extra protection
a radio pocket
pit zips
Negatives:
The Price
Pit zips don't close fully (like most Pro Shell jackets)
do you actually need a stretchy jacket?
It has a built in collar which is irritating even if fleece-lined

SPECS:

• Highly technical super light and durable Gore-Tex® Stretch Pro Shell 3-layer jacket for mountaineering
• Durable stretch fabric in critical areas for maximum ease of movement
• 3-way adjustable hood
• Hood is helmet compatible
• 2-way watertight front zipper
• Reinforced shoulder, back and hip sections
• Two alternatively placed chest pockets and one sleeve pocket, all with laminated watertight zippers
• Secure inner pocket
• Laminated fleece lined chinguard
• Laminated watertight pit zips
• Velcro adjustable cuffs
• Single-hand adjustable hem
• Full wind flap
• Gore-Tex® microtaped

Gear Review: Berghaus Paclite GTX Jacket + Pants

Berghaus Paclite Jacket 8/10
This is probably one of the cheapest (RRP £149) vaguely decent paclite GTX jackets on the market, the women's jacket is too short for me so I bunked for the men's small, which is a much better fit...(I'm a size UK8 and 179cm tall, go figure).  It's pretty light (mine weighs in at around 500g), the trousers the same.  Obviously the GTX is pretty exposed, as with all Paclite Jackets so needs to be kept clean (wash with Grangers/ Nikwax) and no high-abrasion climbing in it! The pants weigh in at 198g (medium) the only downside (if you can call it that) is they zip to the hip and not completely off so not good if you're wearing crampons or harness.  But as I stated earlier - it's not for high-abrasion climbing. If you're looking for a lightweight climbing jacket, make it a Pro Shell, I'd bunk for a Patagonia Stetch Element, Haglofs Spitz, or Mountain Equipment Changabang.  They both pack down to the size of a tennis ball so are ideal for me.  The zips have mini-overflaps rather than full lamination which I happen to quite like since it makes them both lighter, and cheaper.  They have kept me dry in full stormy conditions as well as so there.  Now, breathability...
it's GTX so is pretty breathable after some activity (GTX has to get wet to push the vapour through the 3 layers), it's definitely one of the best breathability wise just because there's not much else to it! EVent lightweight jackets, and H2NO will in general out-perform GTX ones for breathability since they 'breath' straight away.  (GTX is layered with a PU coating to protect it, which IS NOT BREATHABLE, whilst others on the market have the PU pushed through the fabrics with high-power sprays so each strand is coated- allowing HOLES THROUGH THE MEMBRANE (only big enough for water vapour, not rain). 
For more info
If you're looking for a lightweight eVent jacket look at Integral Designs eVent Rain Jacket, it weighs 250g.

Berghaus Paclite Jkt Specs:
Lightweight multi-activity jacket in GORE-TEX® PACLITE® fabric.

GORE-TEX® PACLITE® Helium fabric developed by Berghaus for minimum weight with maximum breathability.

• Micro taped seams.
• Full length zip with hook and loop fastened double storm flap.
• Rollaway hood with volume adjuster and stiffened peak.
• Collar with warm lined panel.
• Two large mesh venting pockets with water resistant zips.
• Hook and loop adjustable cuffs.
• Hem drawcord.

Berghaus Paclite Pant Specs:

• Fabric: Gore-Tex Paclite Shell - Helium
• Weight: 185g
• 3/4-length water resistant side zips open from top and bottom for ease of use and venting
• Elasticated waist

• Mesh stuff sac
• Gore-Tex extreme wet weather guarantee