Gear Review: Crux Plasma Down Smock

Crux Plasma Down Smock 8.5/10
Wow, what a smock, it ain't cheap (£275) which is why I pipped for the smock (half zip) option rather than the full jacket (£295) plus I prefer a good smock anyway.  The market has been crying out for the Plasma, a fully waterproof but breathable down jacket for active use.  I've used this piece climbing in cold, cold Norway which is why I am emphatic about the MUST have status of this smock! Firstly it's 800 fp Polish down, so it's top notch quality, secondly it's only 160g fill so it's not too bulky (admittedly then not the warmest down jacket on the market) but that's good if you're looking to bung this in the bottom of a crag-bag or are using it for its intended purpose, active use.  Mine weighed in at 450g (S) which is ideal for me to scrinch up tiny + not overload my pack.  It's well made, in baffle technology so the heat is shared out around the smock (hence the price) plus it's glued not stitched to the outer shell which cuts down on weight and increases waterproofness (decreases breathability though).  The outer is eVent, woop woop, so it's extra breathable and fully waterproof.  The zip is full waterproof too with Riri Aquazip which work fantastic by the way, in case you're concerned about their performance against YKK zips.  Another plus side is the two internal stuff pockets which are great for your accessories, as well as the outer chest pocket which is large enough to take my map, GPS and compass YAY.  There is a downside, the hood- it's not helmet compatible (as is stated on their website) which is weird for a climbing jacket.  If I'm resting on my belay my head would like some warmth, thank you very much.  It fits (it's a squeeze) but completely restricts movement to 'eyes forward' which is a problem.  It's removable which for me is a plus because I can use it boarding without worrying about snow getting captured in it (or a high thick collar feeling annoying and looking silly).  The sleeve cuffs are elasticated rather than velcro which is good because 1) it cuts down the weight 2) makes it easier to stuff down small 3) debris doesn't get stuck on the velcro.  The elasticated cuff does seem to keep the heat in, and when boarding or moutaineering in this jacket I've placed my mountain (high cuffed) gloves over the smocks cuffs to block out the snow/ cold and prevent them from riding up which has worked 'sweet'.
SPEC:

Shell fabric: eVent

Lining: 20d nylon
Fill: 800 FP Polish goose down (EU norm)
Fill: weight 160 g
Weight 475 g (medium)
Roomy external chest pockets

Generous internal stash pockets
Removable hood

Gear Review: North Face Nuptse Jacket

North Face Nuptse Jacket £150 6/10

It's warm, (but you have to figure into the equation that it's US down not European down, so the warmth/weight ratio isn't as good), now down jackets I'd rate as highly as hell normally, but this is a poorly designed jacket that's best suited to the high street not the mountain.  The cut is short for men and women, and it's not an 'active cut' i.e. for average Joe on the street it might be okay, but for an athletic/ skinny build it'll look like a sack of potatoes.  This means it'll look saggy but also not be as warm as say Rab's down jackets, like the Ascent.  (These are both non-box-walled jackets, so they're really meant for trail use rather than full mountain jackets, as it's the cheapest way to make a down jacket and leaves small sections less warm than others, consequently the price tag is lower).  The hood is rubbish on the Nuptse (it's an emergency hood) and I find the sleeves are too short and ride up no end.  It's light at 700g, but not well designed.  If you're looking for a down jacket to take to the mountain, take the Rab Neutrino Endurance, it's £100 more expensive but is box-walled and a LOT warmer.  If you're looking for something cheaper and non-box-walled jacket bag the Mountain Equipment Xero Jacket at £160. 

SPEC:

• Avg weight: 700g
• 66cm centerback
• 50D body 64 g/m2 mini-ripstop weave nylon/ abrasion with DWR / insulation - 700 fill goose down
• Taffeta emergency hood
• Double-layer taffeta on shoulders
• Internal zippered stow-pocket
• Two hand pockets
• Velcro adjustable cuff tabs
• Hem cinchcord

Gear Review: Rab Vapour-Rise Lite Jacket

Rab Vapour-Rise Lite Jacket 10/10
Oh my god, this is a lovely soft shell and I'll tell you why, this jacket perfectly balances, weight, warmth, wind protection, breathability to provide optimum performance.  It's not too warm so it's ideal for high-sweat activities like cycling, it's light enough to throw in the bottom of your pack without you feeling it, it blocks enough wind to take out the chill factor and it's not outrageously expensive, it has a little fleece lining for comfort/warmth and the Pertex Equilibrium fabric performs a dream, God bless Rab.
If you're looking for a complete windstopper this is not the jacket for you, probably go for the Gore Windstopper Trango fabric 100% windstopperage (like the Mountain Hardwear's Dragon Jacket), Polartec Powershield for warmth (Mountain Equipment Astron Jacket) or Arc Teryx Gamma MX or for breathability go for Dryskin Extreme from Schoeller that's used in Vaude Platinum Air Jacket and , but the vapour-rise lite suits me down to a Tee (well jacket actually). The Dragon retails at £220, Astron retails at £130, Gamma at £220 Platinum Air at £299...

SPECS:

• Weight:390g/14o
• Excellent wicking properties and fast drying fabrics
• Collar drawcord to help keep out the elements (men’s)
• 2 optimum access chest pockets
• Reflective trim details
• Full length 2 way zip
• Single exit hem drawcord
• Adjustable laminated Velcro cuff tabs