Crux Plasma Down Smock 8.5/10
Wow, what a smock, it ain't cheap (£275) which is why I pipped for the smock (half zip) option rather than the full jacket (£295) plus I prefer a good smock anyway. The market has been crying out for the Plasma, a fully waterproof but breathable down jacket for active use. I've used this piece climbing in cold, cold Norway which is why I am emphatic about the MUST have status of this smock! Firstly it's 800 fp Polish down, so it's top notch quality, secondly it's only 160g fill so it's not too bulky (admittedly then not the warmest down jacket on the market) but that's good if you're looking to bung this in the bottom of a crag-bag or are using it for its intended purpose, active use. Mine weighed in at 450g (S) which is ideal for me to scrinch up tiny + not overload my pack. It's well made, in baffle technology so the heat is shared out around the smock (hence the price) plus it's glued not stitched to the outer shell which cuts down on weight and increases waterproofness (decreases breathability though). The outer is eVent, woop woop, so it's extra breathable and fully waterproof. The zip is full waterproof too with Riri Aquazip which work fantastic by the way, in case you're concerned about their performance against YKK zips. Another plus side is the two internal stuff pockets which are great for your accessories, as well as the outer chest pocket which is large enough to take my map, GPS and compass YAY. There is a downside, the hood- it's not helmet compatible (as is stated on their website) which is weird for a climbing jacket. If I'm resting on my belay my head would like some warmth, thank you very much. It fits (it's a squeeze) but completely restricts movement to 'eyes forward' which is a problem. It's removable which for me is a plus because I can use it boarding without worrying about snow getting captured in it (or a high thick collar feeling annoying and looking silly). The sleeve cuffs are elasticated rather than velcro which is good because 1) it cuts down the weight 2) makes it easier to stuff down small 3) debris doesn't get stuck on the velcro. The elasticated cuff does seem to keep the heat in, and when boarding or moutaineering in this jacket I've placed my mountain (high cuffed) gloves over the smocks cuffs to block out the snow/ cold and prevent them from riding up which has worked 'sweet'.
SPEC:
Shell fabric: eVent
Lining: 20d nylon
Fill: 800 FP Polish goose down (EU norm)
Fill: weight 160 g
Weight 475 g (medium)
Roomy external chest pockets
Generous internal stash pockets
Removable hood
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Sunday, 9 May 2010
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